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telophase ([personal profile] telophase) wrote2021-04-21 11:07 pm

Renaissance cookery

Reading a translated book by a Renaissance master cook—The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi (1570). And getting tripped up by the use of all sorts of meats and the completely different flavor profiles favored at the time.

By which I mean you’ll be reading along and hit a recipe for truffles and chicks. AUGH. Or run across one for melon sautéed in butter or chicken fat then boiled with meat broth and gooseberries and thickened with eggs and grated cheese.

Other things are quite interesting: gnocchi existed before potatoes, being made of flour and grated bread, along with a few other things. And there’s a recipe for a garlic soup that starts with FIFTY BULBS—not cloves, bulbs—of garlic. (It’s cooked in several changes of water to kill the garlic burn.) Yeah, he’s cooking for more than a couple of people (he was chief cook to several popes), but...that’s a lot of garlic.

Re: street food

[personal profile] indywind 2021-05-13 09:32 pm (UTC)(link)
Fish/seafood makes sense for a coastal location.
Anywhere crop cultivation is possible, there will nearly always be something based on the local grains, plus if they have enough abundance of any other produce so that it's cheap, that'll show up too. I'd bet on grilled/charbroiled and fried-in-oil as common on-the-spot preparations, served on a stick or straight into the customer's hands, shirttail, apron, etc.

Shortly before the time of Scappi, in the late 1400s, Bartolomeo Sacchi called Platina had published De Honesta Voluptate et Valetudinae, "On right pleasure and good health," which is sadly not available online, but there's an excellent translation in print by Mary Ella Milham, Pegasus Press, 1999, which gives some commentary and context beyond the translation. Recipes I recall include a salad of mixed wild and cultivated herbs, including fennel, dressed with oil and vinegar; a squash soup (using vegetable marrow, which we don't tend to see in the US, but it's sort of like the bastard child of a zucchini and a winter squash) flavored with wine and parmesan and almond milk and spices; a squash pie (again with the vegetable marrow, I guess they had a lot of them) along vaguely the same lines as a modern pumpkin pie: cooked squash flesh mixed with spiced custard, baked in a pie shell; a vaguely quiche-like pie of herbs/greens cooked with soft cheese, beaten eggs, and sweet spice in a pie shell; various fritters and omelets, various preparations of meats, poultry, and seafood that I don't recall.
I think all but the soup would make plausible street food.

Around the same time, an anonymous Venetian cookbook was published, with some overlap in recipes with Platina. There's a decent hobbyist translation online: http://helewyse.medievalcookery.com/libro.html