telophase: (Naruto - chibi dattebayo!)
telophase ([personal profile] telophase) wrote2005-08-11 09:14 pm

(no subject)

You won't have to put up with bitchy!Telophase all weekend long. I have discovered that the way UPS finds my apartment number is to phone me. My paper will be on the truck for delivery tomorrow. *stadium cheer*

I will have you all know that I have drunk an ENTIRE BOTTLE of Amaretto and am considering cracking open a second.*

The winner of the shot glass poll is, of course, the tickybox, but Sanzo's running a close second and he's the one I'm utilizing tonight, not that you didn't guess I probably would what with me stacking the poll and all.







* I forgot I had two airplane-size bottle of Amaretto instead of one big one.

[identity profile] hatchet-hands.livejournal.com 2005-08-12 02:47 am (UTC)(link)
So...what's authentic manga paper like? What weight is it (gsm)? I'm thinking of getting some spiffy paper to draw on, as opposed to my cheapskate 120gsm sketchpad which always leaves erasermaks everywhere. but is it worth the money? I'm such a scrooge.

[identity profile] telophase.livejournal.com 2005-08-12 02:54 am (UTC)(link)
This is actually marker paper, which is translucent and doens't absorb ink redily, so you cna blend it and stuff before it dries.

I do, however, use manga paper and have a bunch. :) It's heavier than regular paper, but not as heavy as, say, Bristol board. It erases nicely as long as you use a white eraser and ahvne't gotten *too* heavy on teh pencil. It's smooth, like smooth Bristol, so you can ink with dip pens without getting too many fibers stuck in the pen, and it's not as absorbent as sketch paper so the ink doens't spread. It's not as ehavy as comic board, which is basically Bristol board. Manga paper will fit trhough my printer, which is good because I print the pencils on it in blue and then ink on top of that. I've been getting it in B4 size from Akadot Retail (http://www.akadotretail.com/shop/shop_showpaper.php?t=B4). Iv'e got both the 110 and 135kg weights, but the 135 is better because it's sturdier and can take slightly more abuse. It'll still go trhough the printer, though, unlike Britol or comic board.

[identity profile] telophase.livejournal.com 2005-08-12 02:56 am (UTC)(link)
Oh - if you don't need to run it through the printer, Bristol board is good. It comes in two kinds, good for pencil, and good for pen and ink. If you get the pen and ink kind, you'll ahve to draw reeeeeally lightly or use a lightbox on it :)

[identity profile] hatchet-hands.livejournal.com 2005-08-12 03:52 am (UTC)(link)
Arr. This is so very hardcore.

I like to hatch, so I like papers that offer a good 'grip' to the pen with minimal bleeding. But that's changed since I've started trying to be a pro and use halftones instead of hatching shades. So - I guess I'll need to start paying more attention to what my local artshop stocks.

[identity profile] telophase.livejournal.com 2005-08-12 04:00 am (UTC)(link)
My art stores here really don't offer much of a range of paper - there's sketch, Bristol, pastel, watercolor, tracng, and marker, and then you start getting into handmade papers with decorations which aren't good for drawing on. I really need to order some different papers from texasartsupply.com or dickblick.com and experiment. I've heard that this stuff (http://www.dickblick.com/zz106/01/) is as good as comic board for inking on, but I've never tried it.

[identity profile] hatchet-hands.livejournal.com 2005-08-12 04:30 am (UTC)(link)
Well, maybe I'm just being lazy. I guess it couldn't hurt to try something from an online store.

The darndest thing is - I live 5 blocks from an art store. Ugh...the convenience...!!